This season, we saw international newcomers making a big media splash! Major trends included cutouts (from shoulders, sleeves, and hems) and varying waist silhouettes (cinched and fold overs). Here’s a recap of five designers’ collections that we’re raving about – from South Asian designers to trends.
Inspired by her visit to the Taj Mahal and the Banjara nomadic tribes of India, Mumbai-based fashion designer Archana Kochhar’s collection consisted of mainly off white pieces with multi-colored thread work, mirror work, and colorful digital-printed motifs that defined the Indian lifestyle, i.e. lotus flowers, elephants, geometric shapes. Contemporary silhouettes fused with conventional Indian cuts bringing the east-meets-west concept to the forefront. The collection comprised of caplets, flared bellbottoms, paper bag skirts, flared skirts, pencil skirts, high-waisted shorts, dhoti pants, structured gowns, keyhole gowns, drapes, and jumpsuits. Spring/Summer 2017’s major trend of cut-out shoulders was also spotted on the runway, ranging from shoulder baring crop tops to gowns.
Runa Ray made her debut at New York Fashion Week this season! The Indian-born designer studied in Bangalore, Amsterdam and Paris, and worked with notable couturiers like John Galliano and the House of Dior, prior to starting her own line. Melding her knowledge of haute couture and ready-to-wear, her collection was inspired by the art of manipulating and folding fabrics, with a focus on ancient origami and eastern embroidery. Cool cream colors and jewel tones were seen throughout the collection. Fabrics included a blend of suede finished cotton, organza, jute, and silk. Kimono-inspired capes, palazzo pants, and pencil skirts defined the collection. Keep an eye on the trend of sleeve slits, which were also seen on the runway.
Inspired by her hometown of Jakarta, Indonesian fashion designer Anniesa Hasibuan made fashion week history as the first designer to present a collection with hijabs in every look (and she was the first Indonesian fashion designer to debut at New York Fashion Week)! Colorful headscarves in silver, gold, and pastel pink were shown amid a collection that featured a variety of skirts, wide-legged pants, kimonos, jackets, capes, and gowns – in a range of pastel, cream, and metallic hues. Flowy silks, chiffons, laces, velvets, and brocades adorned with sequins and pearls were seen throughout.
With all the chaos around the world (between terrorist attacks and political uncertainty), Bibhu Mohapatra’s Belle Époque-inspired collection is “all about the good times and appreciating what we have.” The New York-based designer debuted his jewelry line in the U.S., with his Spring/Summer 2017 line. The optimistic and playful collection featured silk and tulle pieces embroidered with pearls, crystals, and marabou – along with cottons and linens. An overall neutral colored palette was highlighted with bursts of bright tangerine, citrus, violet, and metallic hues. Trends to keep on your radar include stripes, ruffles, cutouts (from bared shoulders to slit hemlines), and cinched waists.
Drawing from his experience in the 1970s as a designer for Halston, Naeem Khan showcased a series of body-hugging, bias-cut gowns. Graphic-print gowns with cut-out shoulders and hemline slits opened the show, which slowly gave way to floral motifs, embroideries, and sequins that paid homage to his Indian roots. Hues of red, citrus yellow, and sky blue were intertwined between black, off white, and cream.